Until We Meet Again New Zealand

Goodbye New Zealand.  Through my experience here, I've learned about myself, this country and my own country too, its people and people in general.  It's been an amazing year.

Thank you New Zealand for:

• Showing me that it isn't actually necessary to finish sentences, particularly the similes.  Why bother, there really isn't a comparison worthy enough anyway ("Sweet as" "Cheap as")
• And a vocabulary lesson.  Jandals, Holiday, Boot and Bonnet, Biscuits (instead of cookies), Lemonade (instead of Sprite), Bach, and so many more.  I'm now fluent in two languages.
• The people who were kind of enough to occasionally mistake my accent for one of yours...when they weren't asking if I was Canadian
• The wine, bread and other carbs that were so tasty and comforting that they aided in my gaining 20 lbs while I've been here.  Without that I may have forgotten that I was in the best shape of my life before I arrived and I wouldn't have such a high goal to achieve when I leave.  Thanks for that.
• The technology: Ahead in so many ways and so far behind in others.  It kept me on my toes and tested my temper all at the same time.
• Destroying my spelling, it's going to take at least a year for me to recover from spelling things with u's and s's and consonants where they don't belong. 
• Your commercials.  There are just no words to describe the variety.  One commercial featured a girl and her pet...a beaver.  That's right, it was a tampon commercial.  Classy.
• Teaching me the difference between Australians and New Zealanders.  They aren't the same country...who knew?

I imagine that people will ask, "What was the best thing about living in New Zealand?"  And I'll say the first thing that pops into my mind and smile. But on the inside, I'll be wondering how I could ever actually put into words the amazing time I've had here...I think without someone having the experience themselves it couldn't be described at all.

I set out last March with very few expectations for my trip here, maybe that's why it's been so successful.  My hope was that I could last until my birthday in May, which would have been three months.  The reality is that it's hard for me to leave now, 12 months later.  There are still things that I didn't accomplish on my "To Do List" but I actually knocked off the majority...and many more if you consider everything I've done that wasn't on the list.  I've experienced vacations, time with friends, gorgeous landscapes, remote islands, romantic flings, new adventures and so much more.  I wanted to "Live like a Kiwi" and I'd like to think I've done a pretty good job. 

A big thank you to all of the people I have met here who have helped me enjoy this past year to the fullest.  And a thank you to my friends and family back home who were excited for my travels, followed my ramblings on this blog and kept in touch while I've been away.  It's nice to feel loved by so many people around the world.

Next up:  Southeast Asia tomorrow where the adventure continues...

Shaken Up

Well my travels on the South Island have come to an end and I am back in Auckland as I write.  First I should send out a thank you to everyone for their concern.  I received numerous calls, emails and texts after the Canterbury earthquake.  I was one of the fortunate ones to be back safely on the North Island praying that volcanoes weren't going to follow suit and erupt (they didn't).

But it's eerie to see the places we toured in Christchurch that have now collapsed.  And it's so sad to hear about the tragic loss of life.  While we were there the people were incredibly friendly, more than once we struggled with maps and they offered directions.  Now as we still hear stories of survival and community it's even more evident how much they care about others (strangers or not).

Christchurch Cathedral before and after the quake

The death tolls are still being estimated but sadly it is clear that the area won't make out as fortunately as they did in September when the earth first shook. It will be a long road to recovery.

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As for the rest of my journey on the South Island it went really well.  Although my car never really recovered (which is unfortunate since I did foot a bill of $600 in an attempt to repair it), it got us safely back home after 2 1/2 weeks of travelling.  Along the way we had some great experiences but I've discovered I'm definitely not as big of a fan of the South Island.  I just felt like one of the many tourists visiting New Zealand instead of someone who has been living here for nearly a year.  Seriously, people, can't you tell that I've become one of you... I find myself spelling things wrong all over the place!  (favour, travelling, specialise...come on, what has happened to me!!).  

On the South Island I was just another American on vacation, but as far as the landscape goes, it was pretty impressive.  I wouldn't be opposed to shorter trips down there again someday.

Milford Sound in the morning before the wind kicked up

Highlights along the way:

• Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound cruises.  My favourite part was when the engines were turned off and the people were asked to stand deadly still so that we could hear what it could have been like to arrive in the inlet many years ago.  It was mystical.
• Stopping at random points as we travelled north to see things on a whim, like the Blue Pools (where Dad went for a swim in the glacial water and I felt obligated to at least get in up to my knees)
• Seeing the amazing power of water, wind, pressure and ice.  It turns out I have just as much appreciation for the natural science of things as my Science teacher mother (ok, maybe not quite as much) but it's still pretty incredible to see what the elements of this earth are capable of.
• Strapping on crampons and boots to hike on the Franz Josef glacier with my dad
• Kayaking in Abel Tasman.  We had a half day and I think I could have easily spent at least 3-4 days hiking and kayaking through that park, so beautiful.

I have realised that I get lost when I have one incredible thing after another though.  It melds together so that when the popular question comes up about my favourite part - I can't pin it down, there were just too many things to appreciate and enjoy.  Where do you begin?

 

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On a sad note, I was told about the passing of a friend and past co-worker in Chicago just a few days ago.  He encouraged me to travel, read my blog, kept in touch with me through Facebook, and checked in on me after the earthquake.  He died just a few days later of what was possibly a heart attack at the young age of 39.  Life can be short, he will be missed.

My Fellow Americans

Mt. Cook, South Island

I have found the Americans in New Zealand and they are all on the South Island.  Today I met someone from Kansas City, chanted MIZ…ZOU with someone else wearing an MU shirt, and passed someone else wearing a St. Louis shirt.  Welcome to Queenstown, the tourist mecca of the country.  

And for once, when I hear the now all-too-familiar American accent I’m not vying to find out where they are from and how long they are here – instead I don’t say a word because maybe then they won’t know I’m also an American…maybe I can pass myself off as a Kiwi instead.  Then my dad happily (and boisterously) introduces himself to find out where they are from and how long they are here.  Just like that my cover is blown…oh well, at least we’re friendly Americans.

More highlights of the trip:

Me, Dad, Debbie in Queenstown

• Meeting my dad and Debbie in Christchurch.  It’s been a year and a half since I last saw them.
• Spontaneously deciding to camp in Mount Cook.  We could hear the ice falling periodically as it crashed and thundered down the mountain off the glaciers.
• Making it through the windiest night of camping I’ve had in my recent memory.  It was the longest night ever and in the end (when I decided the tent was going to stay pegged down even without me holding it down) I went to sleep for the last few hours of the morning in my favorite spot – the passenger seat of my car.
• Lake Wanaka, which I’m sure would have been even more impressive without the three foot waves breaking on the shore (the wind didn’t die down when we left Mount Cook)
• Arriving in Queenstown, despite the transmission threatening to die in my car, and spending a few days in the Adventure capital while we wait for the auto shops to open back up on Monday morning
• Watching my Dad paraglide down the mountain, even if we did miss him at the top, we still managed to see some spirals as he came in to land

Dad getting ready to land

It's getting harder and harder to imagine leaving this amazing country.  Up next:  A few days in Fiordland National Park while my car gets fixed in Queenstown.  Then we start heading north along the West Coast.

NZI Sevens: Rugby, Drinking, General Mayhem

Wow, the Sevens weekend in Wellington.  Where do I begin to describe the mayhem that I have now had the privilege of experiencing.  Not since college have I had such a full weekend of sports, camaraderie, drinking, shenanigans and randomness.

First I should explain a bit about the sports side of it:  The sevens is an abbreviated rugby game (20 min long) played in several cities across the world, including Las Vegas.  International teams compete in a two-day tournament to be the winner.  It's a great two days of games but most of them aren't watched by the ticket holders...in Wellington it's just one big party.

Second, I should note here the obsession that Kiwis have with dressing up.  They don’t celebrate Halloween to the same extent that we do in the States but they spend the rest of the year making up for it with non-stop fancy dress parties.  The Wellington Sevens is the biggest of them all.  31,000 people packed the stands and I think only four people weren’t dressed in costume (this isn’t an exaggeration – everyone dresses up).

Kiwis have an unbiased sense of humour

Costumes range from simple to really elaborate (box of crayons, police officers, sports players, cavemen, railroad crossing signals complete with lights and bells) and others were more trendy (LOTS of Katy Perry outfits and Black Swan ballerinas).  Some of the best were good purely because of their sheer numbers:  A group of about 30 guys dressed as trolls (the kind with the jewel in their bellies from the 90s).

The games started on Friday afternoon and so we made our way through the masses of costume clad people to the stadium (milling about when there were people jumping off of a pier into the water – costume and all) or when an entire bar waited in apprehension as girl after girl was asked to flash an on-looking crowd…and many did it.  It was sensory overload.  Costumes, drinking, partying, people, drinking…. Too many places to look!

The stadium was equally as intense.  Although we had tickets we never actually sat in our assigned seats…in fact, I’m not sure that anyone did, but the games take such a back seat to the partying that it didn’t matter.  Each section was supposed to support one of the countries at the tournament.  We started in the American section (by chance) and ended up spending 90% of our time in the Canadian one.  But I’m not sure that anyone in any of the sections really was from the country they were supporting.  The Kiwis took it all on board and cheered loudly anyway.

Giving high-fives to the US Team

Saturday had the better games as we reached the final rounds of the match.  But the costumes were a bit worse for the wear as they tried to make it through two days of partying.  By the end of the night the stands were fully packed for the last few games.  The US took third, which was awesome (I gave high-fives to all of the players as they walked by).  But the best part was when New Zealand won the entire tournament.  The stands went nuts.  The team went around the stadium and performed the Haka over and over again.  The energy was contagious!

As we all piled back out onto the streets we again followed the mobs into the city where they closed the roads down turning it into a street party.  Costume pieces were now laying abandoned across the city, people were wandering and swaggering around everywhere into the wee hours of the morning.

Sunday was a good day for different reasons.  The masses had dispersed and everyone walked around in a bit of a sleep-deprived, hungover coma state.  Every once in awhile someone in our group would perk up and say “remember when…” as the images and memories slowly made their way back into our minds.

• Convincing a guy sitting next to us to streak across the field (he made it about half way before the security guards smashed him into the ground
• G chucking an entire hotdog (bun, ketchup, mustard and all) at someone only after he smashed into her
• Watching the racewalkers race right into the water without stopping…then watching them shiver for the next three hours as they tried to dry off again
• Bumping into a fellow Chicagoan, who was sitting in the Canadian section waving an American flag.  He lives 1/2 mile from my old apartment in Lakeview
• People making out with random strangers

And now I’m off, on my way to the South Island with the rest of the tourists carrying a Lonely Planet NZ book and a backpack.  Still feeling a bit sleep deprived, with a sore throat that makes it difficult to even talk let alone eat or drink.  I probably won’t have another weekend like the one I just had in a long time, maybe that’s not a bad thing, but right now the fun memories are still fresh.

Thanks to the girls and the racewalkers for such a memorable and great weekend – you know who you are.

No shirt, No Shoes, No Problem

Everywhere I go people are barefoot  in New Zealand.  When I first arrived, I was shocked to see people barefoot in the city, in the shops, in take away restaurants and even in the supermarket.  But I get it now, it's just part of Kiwiana.  It represents the attitude and the carefree life.  I have welcomed this summer more than I've welcomed most and I'm trying to take advantage of it as much as possible. It hasn't taken much time off of work and in the sun for my feet to look like they belong on a New Zealand beach.  Here's a recap of my busy but wonderful holiday break:

- Christmas Eve was spent in my old flat so that I could wake up with people around and was surprised when I actually had something to open on Christmas morning (thanks to my flatmate, Meagan).  Christmas Dinner was a BBQ with my friend, Amanda, and her family where I was treated to some nice dishes that I've never tried before (including Christmas pudding).

Tent in Pauanui, Coromandel

- On Boxing Day Amanda and I packed up the car and drove to the Coromandel peninsula which is about a 2 hour drive east of Auckland.  The peninsula is lined with beautiful beaches and beach communities.  We camped on a plot of land hired out by Amanda's brother and his friends.  It has a small building just large enough to fit a kitchen on one side and bathroom on the other and the rest of the plot has space for tents and a few camper vans which we used to keep our food in.

Daniel, Olivia, Carl, Amanda

- After a few days in the Coromandel we went back north through Auckland to the west coast of the north island.  We met up with our friends in Opononi (which is just south of 90-mile beach).  There were about 13 of us (not including the 7 children) camping outside of a bach (which is basically a rustic cabin on the ocean).  We had did some sandboarding, ate BBQ, set up a campfire, sang songs, drank and played games.  It was a perfect way to bring in the new year. 

- On Jan 2, Amanda and I packed up our tent once again and headed directly east to the other coast to see the Bay of Islands.  We stayed in a hostel that night and after the bars closed we kept it going by ending the night drinking warm Reisling from the bottle, sitting on the beach, with some of the guys we met at the bar.  It tasted disgusting but I enjoyed every minute of it.

- The next day we were heading out to Urupukapuka Island and Amanda tripped and although there was some blood the most damage was to her knee which quickly swelled up and couldn't take any weight.  It was a bad way to start off the most physical part of our trip (we had everything with us for two nights of camping including all of our food and water that we needed to carry up a steep path over a mountain to the other bay where we would camp).  It made things a bit tough but we were fortunate to have beautiful weather for our time there and we caught a concert on the island featuring Jordan Luck, formally a lead singer in a Kiwi band, The Exponents.

Mangawhai Heads tent site

- We got back to the mainland and stayed another night in Paihia at the hostel and had Amanda's knee checked out before heading south to Mangawhai Heads about 2 hours north of Auckland.  Another small beach town, this time we set up our tent at a site directly in front of the beach.  We took in another concert on Friday night (Fat Freddy's Drop, another Kiwi Band) and then lounged around the next morning, slowly coming to terms with the fact that the vacation was over.

Flight around Auckland

- The Sunday after we returned we closed out the vacation with a voucher I purchased to fly around Auckland in a small prop plane.  As we taxied to the runway I nervously asked the pilot how long he had been flying.  With three years under his belt and the plane already lined up to takeoff, I decided I didn't have much of a choice but to stay calm.  I was happy I did.  It was an amazing experience and I even got to fly the plane a few times.  Of course, I noticed he always checked to see that it could basically fly itself before handing over the controls, but I actually appreciated that over the alternative of plummeting to the earth under my control.

I spent two full weeks on the road.  Have become quite tan for the first time in years.  Cherished spending time with all of my friends here.  And absolutely LOVED spending time in New Zealand without the stress of a job.  Throughout the entire trip I had trouble remembering why I wanted to go back to the United States.  It's such a wonderful country and I have made awesome friends.  I can already feel the melancholy trying to take hold.  It's amazing how my mind changes as soon as the end comes nearer.

Pavlova, The Embodiment of the Kiwi v Oz Rivalry

It's funny how one small dessert can become the essense of a rivalry between two countries.  One a small unassuming country very happy to make fun of themselves; the other a much larger, more well-known and imposing country with the attitudes that go along with it.  As someone who used to live in a country similar to the latter, it's refreshing to now be living in the former.  Before I came to this part of the world the term pavlova had not to my recollection entered my vocabulary (unless of course you count my bad pronunciations of the Russian Olympians and hockey players).

From http://www.stuff.co.nz/



Pavlova, a dessert named after a Russian ballerina, is a meringue cake topped with whip cream and fruit.  And unbeknownst to the rest of the world there is a quiet war raging about where this dessert actually originated...was it New Zealand or was it Australia?

When Jessica Watson finished her round-the-world sailing voyage in Sydney last May the first thing she requested to eat was Pavlova...both countries jumped on that as further proof of her nationality (for the record: she was born in New Zealand and she moved recently to Australia). 

Today the answer has finally been solved around this tasty little dessert.  Stuff.co.nz included the above image with the simple caption:  "IT'S OURS: Oxford agrees with us."  They stuck their tongues out at the Aussies with the backing of the Oxford Dictionary.  That's right, the people behind the Oxford dictionary dedicated time to determine where the Pavlova actually originated and the answer is...New Zealand.

I particularly liked the quote from an old Australian codger who wasn't too happy about the new support for New Zealand, ''They can make all the claims they like, and the Oxford dictionary can go on like great academic know-it-alls, but I think most Australians would agree with me that the true pavlova belongs to Australia,'' the 86-year-old told the Sydney Morning Herald last night.

Let the battle rage on...in the meantime there will be more Kiwi's sleeping easier tonight.  (Read the Stuff.co.nz article here:  New Zealand wins pavlova war.)

Thank you to Meagan, my flatmate, for sharing this fun article and contributing to my further enjoyment of this wonderful country and its quirks.  I'm happy to be on the winning side.  Now we just need to work out who wants to claim Russell Crowe.

A Bitter Sweet Vacation

For the past two weeks I have enjoyed not only some holiday time from work but the privilege of traveling with one of my best friends around both Sydney and Northern New Zealand.  Unfortunately, like many good things, it came to an end today.  This evening as we said goodbye at the airport (and I struggled and failed to keep my composure in public), I realized that this was just the beginning of all the goodbyes I will be saying in the next few months.  Here are some of the highlights of our travels:

Sydney, Blue Mountains:
We rented a car and drove west of the city just shortly after arriving in Sydney.  We stopped by a farm on the way out for the required photos with koala and kangaroo before enjoying the beauty and expanse of the Blue Mountains.  Don't be fooled by the image, it was a bright sunny day and the mountains really are that picturesque.

Inside Sydney Opera House

Opera at the Sydney Opera House:
On one of our last nights in the city we went to an opera at the Opera House.  The most famous opera house in the entire world didn't disappoint.  The atmosphere and experience was well worth it.  It was a nice night out on the town.  Although the sets weren't what we were expecting, we assumed that the number of shows at the Opera House prevent the size and cost of the permanent ones we are used to in Chicago.


Running the Auckland Marathon/Half Marathon:

An early morning start

So I didn't run the marathon as I had planned.  In fact, I didn't even train for the half marathon as I intended, but I ran it anyway.  We woke up at 4:30am on a Sunday and walked to the ferry where we met up with all the other crazy runners to start a marathon.  We crossed the start line together but I ended up falling to the back of the pack quite quickly.  In fact, I made friends with a 60+ year old man who was speed walking his fifth marathon in five months - I found this out just before he sped away.  So it wasn't the performance I would have liked but in the end I completed a half marathon in Auckland and am one of the few that got the opportunity to walk/run across the Auckland Harbour Bridge into the city.  Author's Note: For those wondering my time was 2 hours and 59 minutes, I finished in just enough time to take pictures of Dave as he crossed the finish line of the full marathon.  My flatmate Janine crossed just shortly after that (she started 50 minutes later with the rest of the half marathoners). 

Dave trying a small dune

Cape Reinga, New Zealand:
On Tuesday morning after spending Monday letting our muscles recover we drove north to Cape Reinga.  We lucked out with amazing weather which just made the experience so much more enjoyable.  Cape Reinga is the northern most point in New Zealand and is also where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean and on a clear day, like the one we had, you can actually see where the waters collide.  It was amazing!  And on our way we stopped by 90-mile beach (which isn't actually 90 miles, but that's just details) and went to the dunes to try sand boarding (basically sledding down massive sand dunes).

Waitomo Caves, New Zealand:

Blackwater rafting at Waitomo

On the last Saturday of our holiday we drove south of Auckland to see Waitomo Caves.  The caves are famous for the glow worms that line the ceilings.  We opted for a blackwater rafting tour to really experience the caves.  Blackwater rafting is hiking and tubing through the cave on a guided tour.  The water was freezing but the glow worms and the experience made it very impressive.  And along the route we found out that the "glow worms" are actually fly larvae (a.k.a. maggots) that glow to attract their food source.  Rightly so, they have been calling them glow worms since the 1800s when they first started bringing tourists to the caves.

Things to be thankful for:
- Best friends
- New Zealand - an amazing country
- Crossing more off my to do list (see the bay of islands, Waitomo Caves, half marathon and sand boarding!! It was a busy vacation!)

Time is not on my side

With only a few months left now my timeline is getting set, sometimes by things out of my control, which is making it all that more of a reality.  But it is falling into place and although I'm not sure I'm ready to face it, there is still a piece of me that is comforted by the thought of home.  Here's the latest plan (although it does keep shifting slightly):

October 25-November 7:  Vacation!  Sydney/North Island of New Zealand
November 12: Give notice at work
December 5: Move out of flat, become a drifter
January 2-17: Travel New Zealand (cross a few more things off my To Do List)
February 2: Last day of work
February 4-5: Wellington 7s game
February 8-28: Travel New Zealand (one month left to finish up my To Do List)
March 7: Fly to Kuala Lumpur
March 7-May 10: Travel Southeast Asia (Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos) and China
May 14: Celebrate coming home and my birthday in Chicago

Note: In New Zealand many offices completely close for the holidays, my current employer isn't an exception.  Our office will be closed from December 24 - January 17.

New Favorite Game: Rugby

I went to my first rugby game two weeks ago and I can now say I am convinced rugby is a great game.  I'm told there are people out there that try to make a strong case that American football is a tougher sport than rugby...they would be wrong.

While the Soccer World Cup was popular here, it is really a country of rugby fans.  I haven't quite nailed down all of the rules of the game but I understand enough to appreciate a good sport.  It combines the entertainment of American football, testosterone of hockey fights, and the padding of soccer players.  How can you go wrong? 

We boarded a train in downtown Auckland to head to the stadium with the rest of the fans on Saturday evening.  A 30-minute train ride proved to be nearly as entertaining as the game.  Half of the train car sang the New Zealand national anthem and the other half started up with the South African anthem immediately afterwards.  (We were going to the first game of the tri-nations tournament between New Zealand, Australia and South Africa.)  One Springboks fan carried a vuvuzela and did his part to increase the level of noise and chanting.  By the end of the ride, the entire car was singing a New Zealand pub song - a song that is so thrashed at bars, more than one visitor has mistaken it for the national song.

We got off the train and followed the masses to the Eden Park Stadium.  The Haka was amazing and was finished off by spurts of fire that erupted just in front of us - a nice warm up for the cold evening.  Based on the bantering and commentary before the game we assumed it would be a close game and a fun one to watch live.  It was a fun one to watch but it was definitely not close.  The final score was 32-12, All Blacks.  It was a great way to start off the tournament.

Editor's Note: For those that aren't familiar with the Haka, it is part of the Maori culture.  Performed before every All Blacks game, the most common All Blacks Haka (which is actually any type of Maori dance) is called "Ka Mate, Ka Mate".  The wide eyes and tongues sticking out are to show their passion and scare their opponents before battle.  The entire audience goes crazy after it concludes.  Even when the All Blacks play in other stadiums the crowd loves to watch the Haka.  Although I took a video at the game, it's not very clear and the players are far away so instead check out this video from the All Blacks website: 

Things to be thankful for:
- Great flatmates (my flatmates, plus one neighbor, are in the first picture above)
- The thrill of a sporting event and the atmosphere that goes with it
- Another activity crossed off my list of things to do

I've Clearly Lost the Plot

On Tuesday this week my brain must have stopped working because I signed up for the Auckland Marathon.  So not only have I registered to voluntarily run 26.2 miles, I've decided to do it for the first time in a city built on a dormant volcanic field. Genius.

Last February I signed up for my first half marathon and as I was training for that run, I decided that I would never want to run more than 13.1 miles.  Apparently pain has no memory because by the time the Chicago Marathon came in October, I was actually convincing myself that I could do a marathon if I put my mind to it.  The excitement as I watched a friend qualify for the Boston Marathon with only seconds to spare was contagious.  I did a bit of research, you know, just in case I thought I might want to sign up for the Chicago marathon.  It was scheduled for October 10, 2010...or 10-10-10.  All of a sudden this wasn't just an idea, it seemed possible (it's incredible what your mind can convince you of).  If I was going to complete a marathon I couldn't think of a better day to do it.  But, it wasn't to be, because I moved to New Zealand instead.  My goal of a marathon would have to wait...or would it?

When I arrived I resolutely decided to continue my running...which I did for about two weeks. Then there were foods to try and socialising to do (which involved alcohol, of course), and more food to try and wine to taste...and one thing lead to another and all of sudden my clothes weren't fitting like they should.

This past Monday I was at my limit.  I bit the bullet and joined the gym (which is $23/week as opposed to the $23/month I was paying at home).  With my membership (which is at the YMCA, one of the cheaper gyms in the city) came a personal trainer.  I dragged myself out of bed to make it in for my first appointment on Tuesday morning, at which point I had to admit out loud my horrible habits.  The culminating point was when I was asked to step on the scale.  Disaster.  I hesitated, I closed my eyes, I stood up tall and held my breath.  As the numbers flipped around to their final resting place, I chanced a glance down.  I didn't like what I saw, even in Kilograms I knew I didn't like it.

Well, all I can figure out is that when those numbers came up on the scale I must have gone into some sort of trance.  Who knows, maybe it was temporary insanity.  Within the hour I registered for the Auckland marathon.  If I needed something to work towards in order to get myself back in shape - I now had it.

That night I drove part of the course over the Harbour Bridge.  As my car climbed up over the bridge, my mind was trying to block out the fact that even in the car it seemed like a long way. Shit. (Pictured above is the Auckland Harbour Bridge)

I no longer need to worry about filling my days with distractions.  As of the end of June I will start training for what I can only assume will be a glimpse of a small bit of my own personal Hell.  What I can say is that barring any volcanic eruptions, I'll finish and I'll have something crossed off my bucket list to boot.

To give you an idea of what the course looks like, I've plotted it out on MapMyRun.com.  To see the elevation use the "View Elevation" button below the map.  You will get an idea of what the organisers call "rolling hills" during the first half of the course.  At least I can say I am looking forward to the views and getting back into shape as I work toward this goal.



Things to be thankful for:
- Good advice and encouragement from friends who are accomplished marathoners
- Two legs and feet that, as of today, seem to work quite well
- A ridiculous need for achievements
- Bucket lists, even if I do make it up as I go along

One Fish, Two Fish...

Fishing is an art for some, a relaxation technique for others, a means to get dinner for many, and for me it's a new way to prove my ineptitude, but a great excuse to be on a boat.  We left slightly late on a recent Sunday morning to drive north for an hour to Martin's Bay.  Since we needed to be back in the city by 4:00pm, it would be a short trip.

I've learned that most Kiwis have grown up with, on, and around boats and water their entire lives and so it all comes very naturally to them.  Whereas, I was land-locked in Missouri for most of my life. A trip to "the lake" in Missouri was most likely a drive to the Lake of the Ozarks - a lake so packed with other land-locked drunken boaters that there wasn't even room to manoeuvre a boat.  (Author's note: I should thank my family for at least providing me with regular trips to the coast and lakes in Maine to get a bit of experience on the water.)

Fortunately I recognize my lack of seamanship, so I just attempt to just stay out of the way until asked for help.  At Martin's Bay, we were launching the boats off of a shallow beach, which sounds like a lot of fun and would have been if I hadn't tried to do it in capri pants.  I was drenched in a matter of 2 minutes.

Once launched we rode 15 minutes out of the harbor and anchored on the lee side of an island peninsula.  I learned how to bait the line (which involved chopping up dead fish and hooking two large slimy chunks on the line as best as possible).  I muscled through it all bravely.     

Although my technique of baiting my line slowly improved, it still wasn't enough.  Sadly I was only allowed to boast about fish that were big enough to take home, which eliminated the the three snapper and one yellow tail that I somehow managed to hook, and left me with nothing to claim. Picture left: One of the little snapper that I caught.

On the other hand, the sun was warm, the breeze wasn't too strong, and there were entire schools of fish jumping (at one point it looked and sounded like a stream bubbling over rocks there were so many fish).  After a few hours on the water, a few different locations, and very little fishing success, we called it a day. We headed back to the city with only one snapper (not caught by me). 

Considering the cost of the gas for the day and the bait that we basically just fed to the fish - the one fish we did keep turned out to be a highly expensive catch.  Four days later the fish was thrown out after going dodgy in the refrigerator before we could cook it. And I discovered what I already knew: Fishing here is just like all fishing experiences, it's not always about the fish you catch.

30th Birthday: My Own Little New Year

When I was younger my greatest fear was that no one would come to my funeral.  It wasn't that I didn't have any friends, it's that I couldn't think of anything that could be more sad.  I've told very few about that fear, but now as an adult I realize that it's not something I needed to worry about...afterall, I'd be dead.  Three weeks ago, this old fear resurrected itself, only this time I was afraid no one would help me celebrate my birthday.  As it turned out, it was again an irrational fear.

I didn't wake up to an alarm on May 7th because apparently it wanted to give me a gift that morning as well...more sleep.  What it couldn't have known was that I would then skip breakfast and rush around the flat trying to get out on time - still I appreciated the gesture.  Traffic was light and I actually made it to the office on schedule.  When my boss came in she brought with her a beautiful bouquet of flowers in honor of my birthday.  This was the way to start a 30th birthday!

We went out to lunch to celebrate my new role with the company (and my birthday).  I had a traditional pub dish of fish and chips and was allowed to leave work early.  Afterall, I had a party to prepare.  When I arrived home my flatmates were busy in the kitchen with a surprise cake for me (this was on top of the 31 cupcakes I had baked the previous night).  Another flatmate had a bouquet of tulips waiting for me as well.  Seriously - the day kept getting better.

I hurriedly got ready for the evening and then a few of us raced up the street to see some rally cars race around the Domain (a large park in downtown Auckland).  It wasn't nearly as exciting as I thought it would be, but still pretty impressive.  We stayed long enough to watch several cars hoon around a hairpin turn before catching the bus back to our flat in time for the guests to arrive.

By 8pm the food was out and we were ready (cupcakes, Jell-o shots, fruits and veges, cookies...basically enough to feed an army).  By 9pm we had a good gathering of people.  By 9:30pm the flat was full, alcohol was flowing, and chicken wings and another birthday cake appeared (this was brought by a friend and masterfully crafted as a cowboy boot).  By 10pm my flatmates surprised me with candles and everyone was singing a chorus of Happy Birthday (my three attempts to blow out the candles clearly highlighted my age).   At 11pm the landlord, who is also our neighbor, came by to yell at us for the noise.  At 1am everyone was heading home and somehow I managed to make it out to the bars (I should have stayed and crashed).  At 3am (after falling three times on the dance floor), I shook off the guy making futile attempts to keep my focus, and went to sit down with my friends.  I was ready for bed.

Saturday I was completely useless.  Clearly not as young as I used to be, my hangover prevented me from doing anything productive.  In all, I hung out with a group of wonderful people, had a very memorable night (despite alcohol's attempt to add a haziness to it all), and brought in the next decade of my life in style...as a cowgirl. My wish: That everyone can be as fortunate as I was on my own little New Year.

Easter is Like a Box of Chocolates

Easter in New Zealand is celebrated by giving everyone in the country both Friday and Monday off, which means there are a lot of people that escape for the long weekend. Although I have nothing to escape from, I went along with a group out of Auckland to Rotorua. Having previously been to Rotorua when I was here in December, this wasn’t a new location for me but I still didn't know what to expect... 

I was there with a group of 11 adults and 4 children. Rotorua is on the Western side of the North island of New Zealand (Southwest of Auckland). It’s a geothermal area so very similar to Yellowstone in the United States. The options were endless and we took advantage of a lot of them. Here’s the way the weekend played out:

Thursday: Head out on the town in Auckland for a few drinks. The bars and everything else were required to close at midnight on Thursday in order to observe the national holiday on Friday.

Friday: Drive to Rotorua. Traffic was horrendous so we got there late in the afternoon. We spent the day hanging out at the hotel at the hot sulphur pool, and sitting around the picnic tables. The rest of the evening was spent hanging out, drinking, and playing games in the room.

Saturday: Head to The Buried Village for a tour and to check out the Green and Blue lakes. Our tour guide took us around the Maori village that was buried when a volcano erupted in the late 1800s burying the village and everything around it in ash. It destroyed the pink and white silica terraces that were one of the biggest draws to New Zealand at the time. Many visitors (mostly British) would travel for months just to reach them.

After our tour, we took a short walk to a waterfall nearby and then rushed back to the hotel for a quick lunch. That afternoon we met up with some of the others from the group for mountain biking. This was by far one of my favourite experiences while I was there. Seven of us rented bikes and went on some fantastic trails through the forest. After biking we relaxed in the warm pool at the hotel and headed into town to a Turkish restaurant for dinner. That night we played Catch Phrase (a big hit with the kiwi crowd – even with the odd American phrases), and other games while we hung out in the room.

Sunday: Wake up and realize I just gained an hour and I can sleep a bit longer. (Unlike in the US, it’s “Fall Back” here – which means I’ve had two Daylight Savings in a row that I’ve gained an hour – awesome!) Enjoy some luging which is similar to the alpine sleds in Colorado except you aren’t on a track like a luge, it’s closer to paved roads down the mountain. It involves sitting on a small cart and shooting down the hill on a twisty road with a few hills that you can actually get some air on if you are moving quick enough. The best part is racing people down the hill.

After luging, a few of the guys wanted to do some more racing. Drift cars here we come! Apparently there are very few drift car tracks in the world, one of the fastest is in Rotorua. Basically, they are go karts that have completely bald tires and they run on a slippery concrete course so when you go around a corner you are actually drifting sideways to get around it. If you accelerate too quickly while turning, the car can do a complete 360.

Sunday night we had a great discussion about politics and the world’s problems. It’s still amazing to me how much people know about the United States outside of our country and how little we know about others. In the meantime, if any of the world leaders need advice, now you know who to contact.

Monday: We spent the morning walking by Lake Rotorua, hitting balls at the driving range and batting cages, spending some more time at the drift car track – this was all before 11am. After lunch we drove back to the city, making it back in record time with very little traffic. That evening I was treated to an awesome home made dinner of fish, salad, and potatoes, followed by ice cream and chocolate cake for dessert. The Easter bunny even brought me a chocolate egg. So overall, it was just an average Easter holiday in New Zealand. I loved every minute of it.

Things to be thankful for:
- Visiting a black sand beach, mountain biking, drinking games, and seeing a kiwi band play at a pub – all of which have now been crossed off my list
- The American dollar which slightly further in New Zealand, making these things feel a bit more affordable
- Kiwis who are amazing at coming up with fun things to do anywhere, any time

Operation Red Herring

Forget the excitement, it's fear, fear and more fear.  Who does this to themselves? I mean, really?!? I'm going to be over 8000 miles away.  Holy crap!  What am I doing?  If I don't cry in the first week at least once when I get there, I will be shocked...who am I kidding, before I even leave I'll be sobbing like a big baby.

Ok, this won't work.  So, to avoid completely breaking down and ruining the trip, I have a new plan - I'm going to arrive and live in a constant state of distraction.  That's right, I'm planning to mask the fear, the shock, and the stress with as many diversions as I can find so that I don't have time left to think about being homesick and sad. And eventually, maybe, I won't have to pretend at all. So, I've added new things to my list of to dos in New Zealand...(actually, I just want something to cross off after my first weekend.)

43.  Visit the Kai Iwi Lakes

44.  Camp on the beach

Distraction #1 - Weekend Camping Trip: After landing in Auckland, I'll have a day to sort things out before getting in a car and driving north for a few hours to the Kai Iwi Lakes.  It's there, that I'll spend three nights camping and playing on the beach. I personally can't think of a better distraction upon arrival.
 

Distraction #2 - Spending Time on a Boat: The Kai Iwi Lakes are three fresh water lakes, located on the Northwest coast just 2.5 km from the Tasman Sea. They have white sand beaches and are surrounded by farmland and pine plantations. Campsites are set up just off of the beach making it convenient to pull up a boat nearby, which coincidentally, we should have with us.

Distraction #3 - Easter with Fellow Heathens: There's talk of a group of people spending the long Easter weekend at a beach house in Omaha (on the East coast of New Zealand also north of Auckland).  BBQs, drinking games, beaches, fishing...not a bad way to spend the holiday.

...and so begins "Operation Red Herring."

About the pictures:  The first photo is an aerial shot of the lakes and the Tasman Sea just beyond.  In the second photo the people are standing near the campsites on the edge of the pine forest.

New Zealand To Do List

I'm starting my to do list for New Zealand and requesting suggestions.  I will have up to 12 months to see as much of the country as possible, so I'm getting it organized. Since I have already been there once I know that there are a few things that I don't need to add.  For example, hurling myself off a bridge (or cliff) into the abyss below, held up only by the hopeful snap of a bungy cord, isn't going to make the cut of fun and entertaining things to do (maybe on a list of death defying acts, but I value my life too much for this one). There are, however, things that I missed during my first visit that I want to include:

1. Go Blackwater Rafting at Waitomo Caves
2. Tour the South Island
3. See a Rugby game 
4. Go camping
5. Ski the slopes on the North and South Islands
6. Figure out what a feijoa is (I can only vouch for its tasty infusion in vodka)

When I shared this small list with my friend who lives there, I was told that I had missed "a mental amount of stuff."  So, with help from someone who clearly loves the country, the ever-evolving list has grown substantially.

1. Eat a feijoa
2. Go fishing on Auckland harbour
3. Catch at least a snapper.
4. Try to see some dolphins or porpoise in the wild
5. Learn to wakeboard (the "teacher" has no idea the patience that will be required on this one)
6. See the Bay of Islands
7. Go to Cathedral Cove
8. Dig a pool at Hot Water Beach
9. Go wine tasting in the Hawkes Bay
10. Go to a cricket game
11. Go to Taupo
12. Check out a farm!!! (these are not my exclamation points considering I've seen several. I'll determine if it's worthy of the excitement)
13. Visit Wellington, and go to Te Papa (the national museum)
14. Play drinking games (I can vouch for the entertainment factor of this one)
15. Attend multiple BBQ's
16. See a kiwi band play at a small town pub
17. Learn the difference between a Mars bar and a Moro bar
    (Considering they are both chocolate bars, I'll volunteer for several taste tests to get this one right)
18. Check out a black sand beach (This is the kind that burns your feet when the sand heats up)
19. Eat a pie - a real one, a.k.a. a meat pie
20. Eat a Pavlova - it's Kiwi not Australian! (Either way, I'm still not sure what it is)
21. Attend the comedy festival
22. Kayak in the Marlborough Sounds
23. Walk the Tongariro Crossing (Rated the best one day walk in the world... apparently... by people who like walking)
24. See Wellington 7's rugby tournament (This may be difficult - all of the tickets for the games in 2010 sold out in 4 minutes)
25. Mountain biking in Rotorua or Woodhill forest in Auckland
26. Snorkeling at Goat Island - and feeding the fish
27. Hike Abel Tasman (a 2-3 day hike along the northern coast of the South Island)
28. Attend a big fancy dress party (a.k.a. costume party)
29. Glacier hiking
30. River sledging

I think this might be one of my favorite (or favourite) lists yet.  It's going to be entertaining trying to get things on this accomplished.  Let the fun begin....(and send my any other suggestions you may have).

About the photos: Top photo - Blackwater Rafting in Waitomo Caves; Second photo - A feijoa; Bottom photo (left) The National Rugby team, the All Blacks, performing the Haka before the game begins